The Great Dismal Swamp and the American Civil War
|The Great Dismal Swamp Canal
The Battle of South Mills was the only battle near the canal. However, wartime activity left the canal in a deplorable condition.
The Dismal Swamp Canal, opened to waterway traffic
in 1805, became a "prize of war" during the Civil War. In the early months of war, southerners used the canal to transport
much-needed supplies. W. F. Lynch, Commander of the C.S.S. Sea Bird, a side-wheel steamer, received naval supplies
via the canal when he was in charge of a tiny fleet defending Roanoke Island. After Roanoke Island fell into Union hands on February 8, 1862, Lynch decided
to take a position at Elizabeth City.
|Great Dismal Swamp Map
|(Location of Great Dismal Swamp, North Carolina)
However, on February 10th,
units of Admiral Goldsborough's fleet captured Elizabeth
City and the Sea Bird was rammed and sunk by the U.S.S.
Commodore Perry. Two other ships fled northward up the Pasquotank River to the Dismal Swamp Canal
en route to Norfolk. While C.S.S. Beaufort made it
safely through the canal to Norfolk, C.S.S. Appomattox
was two inches too wide to enter the locks. Rather than let his ship be captured by the enemy, the captain set it on fire.
Union forces did not attempt to destroy the locks of the Dismal
Swamp Canal until two months later. According to The
Rebellion Record, Frank Moore, Editor, it was known that "Rebel entrenchments and batteries to protect the canal" had
been installed at South Mills.
|Great Dismal Swamp Map
|(Location of the Great Dismal Swamp)
|Great Dismal Swamp Civil War History
|Great Dismal Swamp and the Civil War
|Great Dismal Swamp Canal
|(Civil War North Carolina)
(Left) In the early days of the colonies,
hunters, fishermen, and loggers used the Great Dismal Swamp for profit and adventure, utilizing the rich resources of the
area as the cities of Virginia and North Carolina grew ever larger. The Great Dismal Swamp was also used by many slaves
to gain their freedom, either by working as bondsmen and hiring themselves out to boat work or shingle production or as a
hiding place for runaway slaves. Some established ‘maroon’ colonies on the higher, drier parts of the swamp,
living off the land and what they could steal. Even in his original survey of the swamp
Colonel William Byrd II had written, “It is certain many Slaves shelter themselves in this Obscure Part of
the World, nor will any of their Righteous neighbors discover them.”
this was the time of the "ironclads," with the battle between the Monitor and the Merrimack at Hampton Roads on March 9, 1862. Word reached
General Burnside, who had established a position in New Bern, that Confederates were building ironclads in Norfolk and intended
to bring them south through the Dismal Swamp and Currituck Canals. Therefore, General Burnside ordered General Jesse L. Reno
to move troops to South Mills and blow up its locks, then proceed to the Currituck
Canal and destroy its banks.
General Reno moved his command of 3,000 men from
Roanoke Island on April 17th and transported them by water to Elizabeth
City. From there, they marched north to South Mills, accompanied by three
wagons loaded with explosive materials to be used on the locks. After an exhausting all-night march, at noon Reno's men encountered the Third Georgia Regiment, commanded by Colonel A. R. Wright, about
three miles below the locks. The two sides engaged at the edge of the woods at the north end of Sawyers Lane.
|Great Dismal Swamp Region Map
|(North Carolina Coast Map)
|Dismal Swamp Canal History
|(Click to Enlarge)
|Great Dismal Swamp, NC
|(Click to Enlarge)
(Right) The Great Dismal Swamp surely doesn’t
draw visitors by the allure of its name, for there could hardly be less attractive appellation for the 111,000 acres of swampy
forest land now a National Wildlife Refuge and popular spot for fishing, birding, hiking, biking, boating, and wildlife observation.
Straddling the border of southeast Virginia and northeast North Carolina, the name of the Great Dismal Swamp belies the natural
beauty of the place as well as its varied history. From the time of its discovery by settlers in the early seventeenth century,
the Great Dismal Swamp has captured imaginations, setting both minds and feet roving among the watery realm of juniper and
On April 19th for five hours the 750
defenders withstood all Union assaults until their artillery commander, C.S. Captain W. W. McComas, was killed. Running low
on ammunition and to avoid being flanked, Wright withdrew his troops to a new position behind Joy's Creek, about a mile away.
Unaccustomed to the oppressive heat and after sustaining numerous casualties, the Union forces did not pursue and, in fact,
rapidly withdrew back to their transports near Elizabeth
City, leaving their dead and wounded behind and the Canal intact.
(Left) The Great Dismal Swamp itself is indeed
both beautiful and hazardous, as well as unique in many ways. While most swamps are located in places lower than their surrounding
lands, the Great Dismal Swamp is actually on a hillside 20 feet above sea-level. In most swamps, also, the moist
heat and darkness make ideal conditions for rapid decay of matter, but the water in the Great Dismal is so acidic due to the
leaching of juniper and cypress trees that there is little bacterial growth, and as a result, debris accumulates year after
year. The Great Dismal Swamp, furthermore, is one of the few places where peat is formed.
|Civil War North Carolina & Great Dismal Swamp Map
|(North Carolina Map of Battles and Battlefields)
Soon afterwards, however, Norfolk surrendered on May 10, 1862,
and Union troops transported goods on the Canal. Leroy G. Edwards, Collector of Tolls for the Dismal Swamp Canal Company,
testified: "In the latter part of the summer of 1862, the U.S. forces
took possession of the work. They gave us much trouble ... goods were carried through under military permits. I asked payment
of tolls, which were refused."
During this time, a sizable number of Confederate
sympathizers and deserted soldiers were in hiding in the Swamp, making periodic raids on Federal boats. Official Army records
document that on December 5, 1863, Brigadier General Edward A. Wild led forces from Norfolk to
South Mills and Camden Court House to capture these rebel forces. However, the two small steamers carrying supplies for his
forces were by "some unaccountable blunder ... sent astray through the wrong canal" and did not catch up with General Wild
until he arrived at Elizabeth City.
In the vastness of the Great Dismal Swamp, the Rebels eluded this expedition. All settlements discovered on this march were
burned and confiscated, innocent men were hanged and women were taken as hostages. North Carolina Governor Zebulon B. Vance
referred to General Wild's actions as a "disgrace to the manhood of the age. Not being able to capture soldiers, they war
upon defenseless women. Great God! What an outrage!" The Union forces returned toNorfolk on
December 24, leaving a trail of destruction behind them.
|South Mills Great Dismal Swamp Canal Lock Entrance
|(Click to Enlarge)
|North Carolina Coast
|(Great Dismal Swamp)
the surrender at Appomattox on
April 9, 1865, the Canal was returned to its owners in a deplorable condition. (See also: North Carolina Coast and the American Civil War and North Carolina Coast and the American Civil War: Operations,
Campaigns, and Expeditions.)
Visitor’s today will see a slightly
less wild and intimidating Great Dismal Swamp, tamed as it was by agriculture and logging, but the historical connections
still remain, seen in the various canals and remnants of African American communities and homesteads. The swamp still
provides excellent opportunities to explore the natural habitat that so astounded its first visitors. Over 200 hundred species
of birds nest in the swamp, as well as otter, bats, raccoon, mink, foxes, squirrels, deer bobcats, and bears. Aside from wildlife
viewing, visitors can boat and fish in the lakes and canals, and hike or bike the many
trails. Hunting is also allowed during certain periods of the year.
Notes: The Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife
Refuge Headquarters are in Suffolk, Virginia, as are some trailheads, but you can still enter the swamp from the North Carolina
side through the Dismal Canal Welcome Center (2356 US Highway 17 N) at South Mills. Trail bikes are also available for
visitors to explore the paved Dismal Swamp Canal Trail.
(Sources listed at bottom of
Recommended Reading: Storm over Carolina: The Confederate
Navy's Struggle for Eastern North Carolina. Description: The struggle for control of the eastern waters of North Carolina during the War Between the States was a bitter, painful,
and sometimes humiliating one for the Confederate navy. No better example exists of the classic adage, "Too little, too late." Burdened
by the lack of adequate warships, construction facilities, and even ammunition, the South's naval arm fought bravely and even
recklessly to stem the tide of the Federal invasion of North Carolina from the raging Atlantic. Storm Over Carolina is the account of the
Southern navy's struggle in North Carolina waters and it
is a saga of crushing defeats interspersed with moments of brilliant and even spectacular victories. It is also the story
of dogged Southern determination and incredible perseverance in the face of overwhelming odds. Continued below...
For most of the Civil War, the navigable portions of the Roanoke, Tar, Neuse, Chowan, and Pasquotank rivers were
occupied by Federal forces. The Albemarle and Pamlico sounds, as well as most of the coastal towns and counties, were also
under Union control. With the building of the river ironclads, the Confederate navy at last could strike a telling blow against
the invaders, but they were slowly overtaken by events elsewhere. With the war grinding to a close, the last Confederate vessel
in North Carolina waters was destroyed. William T. Sherman
was approaching from the south, Wilmington was lost, and the
Confederacy reeled as if from a mortal blow. For the Confederate navy, and even more so for the besieged citizens of eastern
North Carolina, these were stormy days indeed. Storm Over Carolina describes their story, their struggle, their history.
Recommended Reading: Ironclads and Columbiads:
The Coast (The Civil War in North Carolina) (456 pages). Description: Ironclads and Columbiads covers
some of the most important battles and campaigns in the state. In January 1862, Union forces began in earnest to occupy crucial
points on the North Carolina coast. Within six months, Union army and naval forces effectively controlled coastal North Carolina
from the Virginia line south to present-day Morehead City. Continued below...
Union setbacks in Virginia, however, led to the withdrawal of many federal soldiers from North Carolina,
leaving only enough Union troops to hold a few coastal strongholds—the vital ports and railroad junctions. The South
during the Civil War, moreover, hotly contested the North’s ability to maintain its grip on these key coastal strongholds.
Reading: The Civil War in Coastal North Carolina (175 pages) (North
Carolina Division of Archives and History). Description:
From the drama of blockade-running to graphic descriptions of battles on the state's islands and sounds, this book portrays
the explosive events that took place in North Carolina's
coastal region during the Civil War. Topics discussed include the strategic importance of coastal North Carolina, Federal occupation of coastal areas, blockade-running, and the impact of
war on civilians along the Tar Heel coast.
Recommended Reading: Swamp Doctor: The
Diary of a Union Surgeon in the Virginia and North Carolina
Marshes (Hardcover). Description: This is my candidate for Civil War book
of the year. Dr. Lowry, perhaps the most accomplished researcher in the field, has published a series of books on the period,
all of which are worthwhile, but this time he's done something a bit different. Publishing, for the first time, the Civil
War diary of a regimental surgeon, Lowry has shown admirable restraint in adding only the introductory and bridge material
(as well as the best footnotes I've ever seen) necessary for all readers to follow the flow of events in the context of the
greater war. Continued below...
Surgeon William M. Smith, having lost his first diary during the initial
fighting on the Peninsula, began another in time to capture the frustrations and confusion of the first great struggle for
thereafter, his regiment was posted to the Carolinas, an under-studied, but fascinating theater
of war. The diary's value lies in its straightforward readability, as well as in its frankness. Dr. Smith worries over the
loyalty of his fiancee in New York and wrestles with his
religious beliefs. He observes rarely-reported battles and skirmishes, such as the inconclusive operations on the Virginia-Carolina
line in 1862, then the subsequent forays from New Bern. In
between, the reader gets the best account I've seen of the routines of camp life, of daily behavior in occupied territory,
of how officers amused themselves (reading Les Miserables, for one thing), and even what room and board cost in the low country.
The political nonsense that penetrated even the lowest levels of both armies is included, along with a rich variety of personalities,
from selfless patriots to drunks and whoremongers. Throughout, I felt as if I were seeing the real Civil War at last, not
some historian's vision through a high-powered telescope. As trite as it is to say this, I could not put it down. This well-written,
understated book offers an incomparable window into the times, and I, for one, am grateful to Dr. Lowry for making this diary
available to the rest of us. Very highly recommended.
Reading: The Civil War in the Carolinas (Hardcover). Description: Dan Morrill relates the experience of two quite different states bound together in the defense of the
Confederacy, using letters, diaries, memoirs, and reports. He shows how the innovative
operations of the Union army and navy along the coast and in the bays and rivers of the Carolinas
affected the general course of the war as well as the daily lives of all Carolinians. In the latter part
of the war, he describes how Sherman's operation cut out the
heart of the last stronghold of the South. Continued below...
offers fascinating sketches of major and minor personalities, including the new president and state governors, Generals Lee,
Beauregard, Pickett, Sherman, D.H. Hill, and Joseph E. Johnston. Rebels and abolitionists, pacifists and unionists, slaves
and freed men and women, all influential, all placed in their context with clear-eyed precision. If he were wielding a needle
instead of a pen, his tapestry would offer us a complete picture of a people at war. Midwest Book Review: The Civil War in the Carolinas by civil war expert and historian Dan
Morrill (History Department, University of North Carolina at Charlotte, and Director of the Charlotte-Mecklenburg Historical
Society) is a dramatically presented and extensively researched survey and analysis of the impact the American Civil War had
upon the states of North Carolina and South Carolina, and the people who called these states their home. A meticulous, scholarly,
and thoroughly engaging examination of the details of history and the sweeping change that the war wrought for everyone, The
Civil War In The Carolinas is a welcome and informative addition to American Civil War Studies reference collections.
albemarle-nc.com/camden/history/civilwar; Arnold, Robert. The Dismal Swamp
and Lake Drummond. Early Recollections. Vivid Portrayals of Amusing Scenes. Norfolk, VA: Green, Burke & Gregory, 1888;
Davis, Hubert J. The Great Dismal Swamp: Its History, Folklore, and Science.
Murfreesboro, NC: Johnson Pub. Co., 1971; Duke, Alvah. Dismal Swamp Wildlife.
Chicago: Adams Press, 1973; O’Donnell, William James. The Maroons
of the Great Dismal Swamp. Thesis: Dept. of History, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, 1993; Pugh,
Jesse F. and Frank T. Williams. The Hotel in the Great Dismal Swamp, and Contemporary Events Thereabouts. Old Trap, NC: J.F.
Pugh, 1964; Stowe, Harriet Beecher. Dred – A Tale of the Great Dismal Swamp.
Robert S. Levine, ed. North Carolina: University of North Carolina Press, 2006; National Park Service; Maps courtesy Microsoft
Virtual Earth and Microsoft MapPoint; University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill; Albemarle Region Map, by Mark A. Moore;
The Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge (Suffolk, Virginia); Dismal Canal Welcome Center (South Mills, North
Carolina); Official Records of the Union and Confederate Navies; Official Records of the Union and Confederate Armies.